Why an image does not become an EXP just by changing the extension
Photos, hand drawings, illustrations or pets: any image can be embroidered, but not as it is. Embroidery works with flat thread colors, so gradients, shadows and backgrounds are simplified. This is where automatic converters fail the most and where hand digitizing shows the most.
An EXP file, on the other hand, is a list of instructions for the machine: move the needle, stitch, jump, trim and change thread. Going from one to the other is digitizing: redrawing the design as stitch objects and deciding the type, direction and order for each area.
How we turn the image to EXP, step by step
An image is a drawing; an embroidery file is a recipe for the machine. Getting from one to the other takes interpretation, which we do in five steps.
1. Clean up and simplify the image
We start from the image and remove noise, blurry edges and gradients. A thread is a single color, so the design is reduced to the shades that will actually be stitched (in a logo, usually between 1 and 8). Lines thinner than 1 or 1.5 mm are redrawn thicker, because thread cannot be thinner than that.
2. Decide final size, garment and fabric
A stitch has a fixed size; it does not scale like an image. That is why we ask how big the embroidery will be and what fabric it goes on: a stretch polo, a cap or a towel need different densities and underlays. With that information we digitize the design for that specific use.
3. Choose the stitch type for each area
We redraw the design as objects and assign each one a stitch, with its direction and density (the spacing between stitches is usually around 0.4 mm).
| Stitch | Used for | How it works |
|---|---|---|
| Running | Outlines, thin lines and small details | A simple, continuous stitch. It is the only one that can draw lines thinner than 1 mm. |
| Satin | Lettering and narrow shapes, 1 to 7 mm wide | Parallel stitches laid very close together for a smooth, glossy finish. If the area is wider, the thread snags and it switches to fill. |
| Fill (tatami) | Large areas of color | Rows of short, staggered stitches that cover wide surfaces with an even texture and no long loose threads. |
4. Technical adjustments that prevent puckering
- Underlay: base stitches underneath that hold the fabric and lift the satin so it does not sink in.
- Pull compensation: thread tightens the fabric as it is stitched, so we widen the shapes slightly to make the final result match the size of the original.
- Order and path: we stitch from background to detail and link nearby areas to reduce thread jumps and color changes.
- Tie-ins and trims: every section starts and ends secured, and trims are marked wherever there are long jumps.
5. Simulate, export and check
Before delivering we run the design through the stitch simulator: we look at the sequence, the stitch count and the thread changes, and fix whatever does not fit. Then we export it to EXP, check that it opens and that the simulation matches what we agreed, and send it to you with the color sheet.
The EXP format
EXP (Melco Expanded) is the format used by Bernina machines and commercial Melco machines. Like DST, it is a pure stitch format: very compatible but with no color information.
On home Bernina machines the color travels in a separate .INF file with the same name as the EXP. We deliver both together; if you copy only the EXP to the machine, the design embroiders fine but the colors on screen will not match.
| Brand | Use |
|---|---|
| Bernina | home and professional embroidery machines |
| Melco | commercial multi-needle machines |
| Others | many multi-needle machines accept it as an alternative format |
If you use Bernina software and want to be able to edit the design, also ask for the ART format in the notes.
How to prepare the image before sending it
- Crop the image to the part you want embroidered and tell us the approximate final size.
- For photos of people or pets, say which features are essential (eyes, a spot, an expression).
- If it is a hand drawing, scan it or photograph it in even light with no shadows.
- Tell us the maximum number of thread colors you accept: fewer colors, fewer thread changes and a lower price.
In this case: With a photo or illustration the key step is simplification: we decide how many colors the design can take and in what order they are stitched so that EXP has as few jumps and trims as possible.
How we convert it
- We review your fileWe check the image, clean up the edges and reduce the colors to real threads.
- We set size and fabricStitch density depends on the final size and the garment, so it is decided before digitizing and never rescaled afterwards.
- We digitize by handWe trace every area and choose the stitch type (running, satin or fill), direction, density, underlay and pull compensation.
- We simulate the embroideryWe check the sequence in the stitch simulator to remove unnecessary jumps and trims.
- We send it to youYou get the .EXP file with a preview and a sheet with colors, stitch count and dimensions.
What you receive
An .EXP file with its .INF color file for Bernina, a PDF color sheet and a preview.
If you also need the design in another format (for example for a workshop with an industrial machine), ask for it in the notes.
Frequently asked questions
Can an image be converted to EXP for free and automatically?
There are automatic converters, but an image contains no stitches: the software guesses direction, density and order, and the result tends to pucker the fabric, break thread or leave letters unreadable. They work as a draft for very simple designs. To embroider a real garment, the EXP must be digitized or reviewed by hand.
Which machines read the EXP format?
Bernina: home and professional embroidery machines. Melco: commercial multi-needle machines. Others: many multi-needle machines accept it as an alternative format. If you are not sure, put your machine model in the notes.
Can a realistic photo be embroidered?
It can get very close using gradient fill techniques and thread blending, but it is not a print: the result is an interpretation with a limited number of colors. For photos we recommend sizes from 10–12 cm (4–5 in) and we show you a simulation before delivering.
What is the .INF file that comes with the EXP for?
It stores the color list for home Bernina machines. Copy it into the same folder and with the same name as the EXP. Commercial Melco machines do not need it: the operator uses the color sheet.
How much does it cost to convert an image to EXP?
€5 (about $6) per design, and we send it to you in under 24 hours. If your design needed anything out of the ordinary, we will let you know before starting.